How to install pool heat pump

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Your heat pump is not only a great investment, but also the most cost efficient method available for heating pools and spas. Should you ever require help in using or maintaining your heat pump, you will find poolheatpumps. We are here for you! It might be necessary to have a licensed electrician or natural gas professional assist you so that your heater is installed properly and safely. Remember that all pool heater models will require varying guidelines in regard to proper clearance and ventilation and all manufacturer specifications should be strictly adhered to.

If you properly install and maintain your heat pump pool heater, it can easily last five to ten years or longer and maximize energy efficiency. We recommend having a qualified pool professional or electrician install the heater.

Especially for electrical wiring and hookups. Heat pumps need plenty of air circulation and work best outside with plenty of clearance surrounding the unit with no obstructions.

Take care in selecting the location for your heater; on level ground near a pool pump or filter and ensure that air flow is restricted. Install the heater as close to the filter as possible and approximately 25 feet away from the swimming pool. Installing the unit any farther may cause heat loss since tubing is underground.

An "ideal" installation will have about 24" of clearance around the unit with no obstructions above. We have seen many exceptions and if you believe you have one, call us and we can go over it. If you're not sure where to install the heater pump, contact us to make sue that the capacity of the heater is adequate for your pool and the distance between the heat pump and filter.

After you get the unit wired by a licensed electrician and plumbed, you are all set to turn it on. This is where you will need to read your Owner's Manual as every pool heat pump has different controls. Ensure that all valves are open to allow water to get to the pool heat pump. The heat pump can be installed above or below water level. The only proviso is that the pool circulation pump is powerful enough to deliver the water flow rate that the heat pump needs to operate.

We also sell mounting feet and lightweight slabs to mount the heat pump on. These help to raise the heat pump off the ground and also reduce noise and vibration. While the heat pump is operating, it is normal for condensation water to drip from it — particularly in humid conditions. You should consider the condensate water that will come from the unit in the base design as the amount of water can be considerable and cause a pool of water to form. For example if the unit is mounted on timber decking, holes can be made in the decking to allow the condensate water to drain away and not cause rotting to the timber.

Some heat pumps have a water outlet tube that will channel the condensate water away, or a piece of hose can be attached to it to divert the water to a specific location. Some customers mistakenly think that the heat pump has a leak when in fact the water coming from the heat pump is normal condensation.

Before purchasing a pool heat pump, you should check the running current and peak current stated on the listing for your desired model. Ensure that your electrical supply is adequate to support the running and startup currents for the unit.

It is normally recommended to run a dedicated cable back to your electrical consumer unit for the heat pump and install a dedicated breaker for the heat pump. Most heat pumps will have a higher electrical current demand when they start. This only lasts for a millisecond or so while the compressor starts and the current then reverts to the normal running current for the unit. The size of circuit breaker required is normally stated on the listing for each heat pump and is normally slightly larger than the startup current.

In extreme situations, the house lights may flicker or the circuit breaker trips when the heat pump starts up. The soft-start kit helps to prevent this. The soft-start option is not normally required in the UK, or on small heat pumps or on 3-phase heat pumps.

Please contact us for further information. We sell a third-party soft start module that can be added to virtually any heat pump. Armoured cable is normally used to supply the heat pump. This is to prevent the cable from being accidentally damaged eg by digging through it with a spade. The size thickness of the cable required depends on the length of cable used.

A longer cable run will require a thicker cable due to the increased resistance of the long cable. The armoured cable should be run to a rotary isolator switch which should be located within 1-meter of the heat pump to allow the power to be easily killed to the heat pump. The electrical work should be completed by a qualified electrician who can calculate the cable size required.

Most properties have a single-phase electrical supply. If you are not sure, you probably have a single phase electrical supply, but ask your electrician to confirm this for you. Single phase supplies operate at around v in the UK and have one live wire, neutral and earth and are the most common type of power in domestic properties. Larger properties may have a 3-phase power supply. This typically operates around v and uses three live wires, a neutral and earth wires. Note that most 3-phase installations are vv, however in France it is possible to find both vv and some older v 3-phase supplies, so please check which type you have before ordering.

All of our heat pumps are manufactured to work with 50hz electrical supplies which are used throughout Europe. Note that in the USA, they use a 60hz electrical supply.

All of our heat pumps are made to use a 50hz electrical supply. The electrical control boxes can be custom designed to your requirements. Please contact us for a quote. In the UK, these are normally 1. In Europe, 50mm is more common. Check the writing stamped on your existing pipes and elbows to see which size you have.

Do not just measure the external diameter of the pipes or fittings as this is often different to the size required and you may accidentally order the wrong size pipe and pipe fittings!

Once you know the existing pipe size that you have, you will know what size connectors and elbows you will need. If you have an existing pool heater eg gas or oil boiler, then if it still works ok, we recommend that you leave it in place and put the heat pump in line with the existing boiler. This will allow you to run both the heat pump and boiler if required for a rapid pool heat up. The old heater can also help to supplement the heat from your heat pump in very cold weather to help extend the swimming season.

Where possible the water should run through the heat pump first and then the existing heater so that the heat pump does most of the heating work. The thermostat on the existing heater eg gas boiler can be set lower than the heat pump so that the existing heater will only operate if required. The bypass is a series of 3-valves. These allow you to isolate the heat pump to prevent water flowing through it.

A bypass can also allow the water flow rate to be adjusted to achieve the optimum performance for the heat pump. We are happy to advise on how to adjust the flow rate accordingly depending on the make and model of heat pump used.

Generally, you should aim for a difference between water in and water out temperatures of around degrees. This is required in winter when you need to drain all water from the heat pump to prevent damage by freezing, however you may have a frost stat on your pool pump and may wish to continue to circulate the water round your pool pipes.

The bypass setup also allows you to adjust the water flow rate passing though our heat pump. By slghtly opening the bypass valve, you can reduce the water flow through the heat pump. We sell a range of winter covers for pool heat pumps to protect your unit — see our Accessories section. You want your new investment to deliver long and efficient life, and the installation must comply with all local and state codes.

If you are in any way unsure, then you should call in a professional installer. In this step-by-step guide, we will look at how to plan and work through the installation of your new pool heat pump, from selecting the right location to planning and preparing the site, the plumbing, and electrics. Plus, the mistakes to avoid. It should never be installed in a closed space like a shed or garage with poor ventilation; it should always be outside, preferably in direct sunlight.

This sketch below shows a possible layout for your new pool heat pump. This can be concrete, block plinth, or any other suitable material. Make sure the stand is not directly attached to the house as this will transmit vibration and noise inside, and it could become annoying. The support should sit at the same level or a slightly higher level than the filter system pad. As the heat pump requires proper airflow, you need to locate it in a sunny position away from shade, foliage, fences, or walls.

It needs to have free airflow around it to work efficiently. Check for runoff from the roof onto the unit and avoid it with guttering as large volumes of rainwater and debris could enter the top of the heat pump and cause damage to the unit. In the U. In Canada, there must be a minimum distance of inches between the unit and the pool water always check.

In any case, keep the unit as close to the pool as is permitted to minimize cooling loss and maximize the water flow rate. If the humidity in your area is high, a larger volume of condensate will drain from the unit, so ensure an effective drain pan hose is used to avoid water build-up and possible damage to the unit. Allow a minimum of two feet between the back of the unit and the house, at least two feet in front and six feet above to ensure good airflow. If you install the unit under a low overhang, it may not get sufficient airflow to operate efficiently.

This sketch shows the ideal minimums you should aim for:. If you are replacing an existing pool heater, you may have to modify the plumbing layout to suit the new system, so the above items are only a guide, however, anything you need will be readily available locally.

Plan your plumbing layout carefully, using as few fittings as possible to connect your heat pump. If this is your first pool heater, then you can set the plumbing layout to suit your preferences.

Plan carefully to avoid trip hazards with pipes and the chance of them being stood on and broken.