Yaesu 2800 rotor manual

Download his comments and instructions HERE. Download the updated full instructions in. Step 1: Operate the rotor to it's fully CCW position. Step 2: Put a piece of masking tape on the Lower Housing item 1 in the Service Manual and mark the position of the rotor with the alignment marks on the Upper Housing item 2 in the Service Manual.

Step 3: Flip the rotor over and using a 10mm wrench remove the 4 screws holding the bottom bearing race to the moving bell. Step 4: Carefully flip the rotor back to top side up, while holding the bearing race together as if the screws had not been removed. Then carefully lower the race along with the 49 ball bearings down to the table surface.

Now without taking the top off, lift the base of the rotor up out of the center of the lower bearing race, and set the race to one side. Step 5: Carefully lift the top of the rotor straight up to disengage the gears, then tip it over top down onto the table top. Notice the nub in the aluminum Upper Housing that pushes the lever arm item 31, Rotation Limiter against the limit switch.

When reassembling the rotor, you will need to do it in two steps because of the spring action of the limit switch.

The way this works is, the rotor must turn degrees for the nub to push against the other side of the lever when rotating the opposite direction.

This in turn will cause it to push up against the other limit switch when it turns another 90 degrees. Thus you get degrees of total rotation in one direction before a limit switch is activated. Don't worry about this for now, I'll give you details on how to get it back together later. Remove the 49 ball bearings from the rotor base and place them onto the race section of the over-turned Upper Housing for safe keeping while performing the next steps.

Step 6: Locate the ohm position feedback potentiometer. It may be a good idea to mark the position of Gear 1 item 45 with a fine point marker to make it easier to see its position during reassembly. See the photo in this step, and in step 8. Step 8: Carefully slide the pot with Gears 1 and 2 items 45 and 47 out from the Gear Box Plate, and pull the wires and the pot assembly out into the open.

Using the same speed setting, the "time out" location is different each time meaning the rotor is varying in speed. The first rotor turned noticeably faster on high speed and low speed and the 2nd one slower on slow speed and high speeds. Once again not consistent. I talked to Yaesu last week when I still had the first one and he said it did not sound right and the sound while turning should not vary, that is why I swapped the out today, but with the second one doing same thing but worse.

I am wondering what other people experiences are with these rotors on the table top test and the sound as they turn. For that matter is there a timeout on the rotor? Yaesu never commented on that if there is I will say this, I have always used Hygain but for my current setup I feel I needed something bigger but the T2X would not fit into my tower. I had to look elsewhere Thanks in advance guys N1KON , Dec 31, I have 2 of them and the only time they were tried inside was when the rotor cards were setup for install.

Mine have none of these issues but they are a heavy duty rotor with a slow start and stop for heavy and large antennas. There is a few adjustments that you can make they are shown in the manual, the noise I'm unsure of. If these are new rotors I would just return them if you feel there is a problem. N0AZZ , Dec 31, Fred, I agree with returning, if you look in the manual it has a table top test to make sure all is well and calibrated, this is where I found the issues.

I agree they are heavy duty, but it does not give me must trust in them being 2 out of two. I guess I would like to know if anyone else s "times out" when doing to full turn plus overlap when on slow speed s Thanks.

Jerry One of mine turns over in antennas and mast weight with a total wind load of almost 50sq ft. A friend of mine a long time ham has been using Yaesu rotors since they were introduced and branded under there name he said his new DXA 4 mo ago was like yours. Talked to him this afternoon he put it up anyway turning a 4 elememt 40m yagi and a 33' 2m yagi had to put it up with a large crane. CQMaps does a great job packaging their items. Lots of bending protection and the rotor inserts are small enough to fit in the smallest PO Box without folding the envelope.

And here is a photo of the parts for the GA controller laid out for inventory before assembly. Building the kit was quite easy and it could easily be done in one evening. For me, it did take a while, but only because I was out of practice and was having trouble carving out the time to work on it. I did run into some difficulties with the instructions, but that probably had more to do with my inability as a true ham to read about all of those pesky little details. And here is the board with all parts minus the chips and with 12V applied for the first test, which consists of taking a couple voltage measurements on the board.

Finally the chips are inserted and the USB cable from the computer is connected. I never take enough time and I never have the right tools to line things up and cut sheet metal. Marking the case for drilling. Screwing down the board. View from the back. Good thing no one will ever see it! Mechanical complexity is reduced to a minimum by utilizing a simple double worm gear drive system.

Position readout is sensed by a magnetic reed switch. The controller has a full complement of features, including digital readout.

Controller features may be upgraded in the future with a plug in PROM.